It’s time to surf… again!
Yesterday, during a wonderfully warm Fall day in New Jersey, I jumped back onto the saddle (so to speak). It was a beautiful morning day with a light overcast; nothing to be concerned about really. Sure, I was running incredibly late for an important meeting, but my leader didn’t seem to mind. Lance, our surf instructor, fit the part to a T. He had just that perfect surfer hairstyle, the flat-shaped Billabong hat, a laid-back way about him and over 40 years of surf experience behind him. In other words, he had the street creeds to make be feel great about my choice to come out and learn...
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